Shopping at the farmer’s market isn’t like going to the grocery store. When going to the store I go with a list in hand. I know what I am going to make, and I know what I need to buy. At the farmer’s market things are the other way around. I buy what is in season, what is fresh, what looks good and what is available at a good price.
It is just such a trip that saw me come home with three leeks, as three leeks for $2 is a bargain that just can’t be beat. And then its neighbor, the fennel bulb, had to jump in for the ride as well. And hey, look at those carrots! So brightly orange compared to their pale supermarket cousins! OK, so, perhaps they aren’t quite as crisp, but I’m sure that can be remedied.
Having only bought leeks once before I was more than a little unprepared for the sheer volume that three large leeks produce. Cutting a leek is a bit like taking a product out of a package. In the end you wonder how that much ever got stuffed into that tiny box. In my case I was left wondering how three leeks, even with their tops cut off, which were so compact before eventually filled and overflowed a four quart mixing bowl. Obviously, I had a problem on my hand. This was solved some time ago with a modification of Alton Brown’s Leftover Baked Potato Soup which I modified to use a bit more leek than called for. This was very good soup, but still left me with a lot of cut leek.
I had dreams of making the grilled fennel with lemon oil that I had seen posted by FoodBuzz.com the other day. Alas, I was out of charcoal and just didn’t feel like messing with the grill pan. Besides, while I was overloaded with vegetables, I was also more than a little lean on protein. The answer, of course – more soup.
I rarely measure when I cook, so you’ll have to bear with me here. While baking is a science, cooking is definitely more of an art, and I tend to cook with dashes, pinches and handfuls. The recipe, then, as best as I can approximate it is as follows:
Leek, Fennel, Mushroom & Barley Soup
1-2 large leeks – tops removed, sliced and thoroughly rinsed
1 large fennel bulb, tops and stalks removed, sliced
2 large carrots, scrubbed well or peeled and sliced into disks
1-2 ounce (A good handful) of mixed dried mushrooms including porcini, morel and lobster
2/3 cups pearled barley
2 quarts vegetable stock
Water
Olive oil
Tarragon vinegar
Fresh sage, tarragon and thyme to taste
3 Bay leaves
Salt and pepper
1. Cut the dark green portion off of your leeks and discard. Trim any roots and discard. Cut the remainder in half, lengthwise and then cut into 1/4″ thick slices. Each slice will have many layers that can trap dirt, so put your leek slices into a bowl, let them soak for a bit and give them a good stir before turning out into a colander for a second rinse.
2. Cut the stalks from your fennel bulb and set aside. They can be used for garnish or can be used in cooking for a mild fennel taste. Slice the bulb in half and remove the core, then slice the remaining bulb into julienned strips.
3. Remove greens and any root tips from carrots. Scrub your carrots well with a vegetable brush and peel if necessary. Cut the carrot into thin 1/4″ thick disks, or cut on the bias for long, decorative ovals.
4. Place a 5-quart pan on the stove on medium-high heat. Allow it to warm and then add enough olive oil to thinly coat the cooking surface. Add your fennel, leeks, carrots and a pinch of salt. Allow this mixture to cook, stirring frequently, until the leeks and fennel have sweated down to half of their volume.
5. Add in the vegetable broth, bay leaves, dried mushrooms and pearled barley. Reduce heat to a simmer.
6. Strip thyme and tarragon from sprigs by pulling backwards along the stem, set aside. Stack a small amount of sage leaves, perhaps 7-8 large leaves, and then cut into thin strips. Add your herbs to the pot and spike it with tarragon vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. Add in enough water to make sure everything is covered and allow to simmer for at least 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
7. Garnish with fennel greens and a sage leaf, serve hot. I served mine with sandwiches made on the Anadama bread that I baked a few days ago.



It looks like that came out really nice! And personally, I don’t like crisp carrots in cooked food. If I’m eating them as just carrots, yes, but in soup, mushy is better.
I’m gonna have to try that bread today!